cuptisserie with four spindles - stainless steel wine cups

by:Koodee      2019-08-17
cuptisserie with four spindles  -  stainless steel wine cups
A friend is a craftsman who wants to draw patterns, logos and proverbs on a stainless steel cup and he asked me to make a cup for her.
It uses the motor on the outdoor grill to rotate four cups at about 10 rpm, so that she can get smooth continuous applications around each cup.
This photo shows the project I completed. (
It is placed on the conversion of the circular saw I built to the table saw.
That is the steel plate in the upper left part of the photo. )
I like to weld things if possible, but this can cause special problems.
This Instructable will use some drawings to show how to build your own cup without welding.
Here is a brief description of what I have done.
A barbecue shop in a store selling outdoor grills has a barbecue shop motor installed so that it can be kept in place, but it can also be turned over like these motors.
It is installed on the side of about 45 degrees of tilt, providing more space for the user's hands. (
My friend explained that she sometimes needs to remove the cup on her sleeve to touchup painting.
Each spindle has a 1/2 PVC Pipe sleeve that can be locked on the steel spindle, but it is easy to unlock. )
I made a hollow core with 4 small 5 "foam football.
These slide to the end of the spindle and install the Cup to be painted.
The Cup slides onto the football and compresses it a little for the fit.
Instead of using the square shaft that came with the barbecue shop kit, I made a square end on the round shaft to fit on the motor drive socket.
The plywood disc with a diameter of about 4 "is mounted on this round shaft and has a round rubber band for the Oreck vacuum cleaner in the groove around it.
This disc and rubber band use friction to drive the other two wooden discs attached to the shaft.
YouTube has a number of videos showing a variety of designs for the family
Built-in cuptisseries.
A commercial version solves the problem of transmitting power to other spindles by using a separate motor for each spindle.
A four-ingot machine is priced at nearly $400.
I recently used an old Atlas metal lathe.
1/2 "the inner diameter of PVC is really slightly higher than 9/16" without any standard.
I got a part of an old grass catcher from a circular lawn mower about 5/8 "in diameter.
I was able to cut two pieces of about 13 "long from the grass catcher attachment.
I was able to narrow them down to the diameter that slides nicely into the PVC.
No lathe workaround: use 1/2 "steel bar for shaft. (
See the second figure. )
Later, when preparing to assemble the Cup, wrap four circles of plastic electrical tape around the 1/2 steel rod to make it fit smoothly with PVC.
Look at the third photo.
Look at the first photo.
I turned over the shaft of about 5/8 "from grass catcher to 3/8" and made a ground on it with my hands to reach 5/16 "square.
The square end is mounted on the socket on the rotisserie motor.
Look at the second photo.
I drilled a 3/16 hole in the circular section and inserted a tension pin.
Make a 4 "plate with a lathe or a hole saw.
Drill a hole on the disc to install the round shaft.
Slide the disc and mark the position of the tension pin.
I used the Dremel tool to make a groove for the tension pin so that the rotation of the disc is locked on the rotation of the shaft.
Note: If you use a 1/2 "shaft instead of 5/8" as I do, you may want to use a 1/8 tension pin.
Drilling 3/16 from a shaft of 1/2 does not leave too much strength at the hole.
A 1/8 pull pin is probably enough.
Look at the third photo.
In this case, I added a second hole for the second tension pin of the first 90 degrees.
The pin locks the disc firmly on the first tension pin at its entrance. (
On the two drive discs, I used a similar arrangement except that there was no second tension pin.
Instead, I put the screws into the plywood at each end of the tension pin.
The head overlaps the end of the tension pin and keeps the disc in place.
I also put a lot of JB welds at the entrance to make it hard around the tension pin.
These drive wheels are attached to the shaft very firmly. )
Look at the fourth photo.
I made a groove around the perimeter of each wooden wheel, with a depth of about 1/3 of the diameter of the round rubber band.
The groove keeps the rubber band on the drive wheel and aligns with the drive wheel.
I have a deluxe lathe for this.
The groove can be done manually with the mouse tail wood file.
Try to make the groove consistent.
I used steel gaskets as bearings in the hardware department of a large box home improvement store.
To save money, I bought them some long ones that cut their length by half.
They are smooth inside and work fine for things that only turn 10 rpm.
My problem is that I weld them on the horn.
I carefully place the shafts inside each bearing and pass through its fit during welding to keep them aligned.
But when the things that are welded to cool move.
Several times, I had to bend and twist to prevent the shaft from combining with the inside of the bearing, because things move when the weld cools.
For things that turn at 10 rpm, drilling through the wood and lubricating with some suitable fitting holes that penetrate into the oil in the wood will do well and will last for a long time. (
My father has a grain combine which uses an oil-soaked wooden bearing on both crankshaft and turns very fast.
He cut a lot of food near us.
These bearings are lubricated every day, and after a season or two they are replaced when they are worn out a little loose, but they work well. )
See the second figure.
This is a wooden box that is drilled at the same time on both sides of it for proper alignment.
Tighten on one side and can be removed to insert the shaft and drive wheel.
These holes coincide with the metal shaft. (
In this wooden box installed for the spindle and drive wheel, the center of the hole is 7 "apart ".
This allows the Cup to have enough space to get close to each other, and the operator's hand can take the next Cup for touchup painting.
Also leave enough space for the drive wheel. )
I made two of these brackets for the drive wheel and the rotisserie motor with angle iron.
These parts are welded together.
They were screwed onto the plywood base.
See the second figure.
A bending rod welded to one of the brackets prevents the grill motor from falling off the shaft of the bracket and drive wheel.
It is loose enough that the motor can be bent slightly while maintaining at the Square end of the drive.
The third figure shows the wooden version of the base motor bracket shown in the first two figures.
1x2 can be used.
I was surprised to find that rotisserie motor does not always turn in the same direction.
Sometimes clockwise, sometimes counter-clockwise.
I was going to have the corner of the motor on the plywood base but need something more positive.
I made a support to hold the corner of the motor.
See The fourth figure.
If you are using a wooden structure that is not welded, the fifth figure shows a component for fixing the motor.
The PVC pipe slides onto each steel shaft, making it easy for the spindle to be disassembled while moving.
The 3/16 "rod in the photo will be a little shorter, drill holes on the 1/2" steel shaft and is a tension pin. (
Please see my previous warning about drilling 3/16 out of the 1/2 shaft.
The 1/8 "tension pin may be better for maintaining as much strength as possible in the 1/2" Shaft. )
I drill holes in the corner of the pattern and cut between them with the cutting disc on the Dremel tool.
The disk is worn out, so the diameter is smaller than usual.
The user grabs the PVC between the cup and the tension pin, pushes the box of the mounting shaft inward, rotates about 1/4 laps, and pulls the PVC spindle down from the shaft. .
The base should cover the area below the four spindles and add a little bit to capture the paint drops.
I used a piece of "plywood 13" x 29 "of 3/4 ".
Twist the two brackets of the motor to the base close to its center. (
If you need to replace the motor or vacuum cleaner belt, remove the forward drive [two screws]
, Slide the driver out of the remaining bracket and slide the motor side. )
Will keep the parts in place in the corner of the motor.
Install the drive wheel and spindle shaft in the box of the drive wheel.
Use the gasket as needed to keep the drive wheel centered on both sides of the box.
Drill a hole from the outside of the box, go through 1/2 "the spindle rod is about 1 1/2" and drive a tension pin in it, which only sticks out on one side.
Install the entire assembly above the drive wheel.
See the second figure.
It relies on its support. (
This bracket can be easily made of wood. )
The screws that hold the support on the base are kept loose about half a circle.
Add an extension spring with several pounds of pull between the other end of the box and the base, and pull the drive wheel down to the drive wheel. (
Look at the wooden motor bearing bracket after two steps.
The bracket of the bearing box can also be made of wood, which is very similar. )
Tape is added around the spindle bar to work closely with the PVC pipe so it can slide up and down easily but not loose.
Add a part of foam football or foam noodles for swimming to keep the Cup.
I made a jagged edge at the end of a 1/2 steel electric conduit and screwed it into the end of the football, providing the core for foam football.
Look at the third photo.
If half of the core is cut from one side and the other is cut from the other, the effect is best.
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